
6th May 2026
Ben left yesterday. Ben is my grandson. He came for two weeks, and we did a circuit from Antigua to Montserrat, to Nevis, across to Barbuda and back to Antigua. He said we certainly had some adventures.
They started in Montserrat with picking up 20metres of fishing net. I wrote about that. Then, in Nevis, the engine started making a funny noise. In Barbuda, I put it in reverse to back down the anchor. There was a loud “clonk”, and the engine stopped.
We could go forwards – although that didn’t work out too well either – not since I had confused Enoch’s Beach Bar with Uncle Roddy’s Beach Bar. I remembered Enoch’s from two years ago – just down the Princess Diana Beach from Nobu. I certainly remembered Nobu. I had promised Ben a wildly expensive lunch at Nobu – last time, a cocktail set me back $12 – and that’s US dollars, not the East Caribbean kind (EC – as in EC come, EC go).
It seemed only fair: I had already promised my son Hugo a wildly expensive meal at Basil’s on Mustique when he came to join me in Grenada (actually, it turned out to be very reasonable, but maybe that was because Mick Jagger didn’t pop in for a Carib…)
Anyway, Ben and I had anchored within swimming distance of what I thought was Enoch’s – although inspecting it through binoculars, it seemed Enoch must have been doing particularly well with his charcoal-grilled lobsters, because gone was the rickety shack and the oil-drum barbecue. In its place stood a very permanent-looking two-storey building with upstairs dining under the stars and a terrace running down to the sand.
We had a couple of cold Caribs and established that this wasn’t Enoch’s at all, but Uncle Roddy’s and you couldn’t walk along the beach to Nobu because it was the other way and round the point where there wasn’t any beach, just rocks.
That was when I realised I had brought one of my sandals and one of Ben’s spare pair – both of them left-footed. I ended up hopping from rock to rock. When we got to Nobu, we felt we ought to add a brace of cocktails to the Caribs, but only if they would add a taxi to the bill to take us back to Roddy’s for dinner (and more Caribs and cocktails. Ben said Uncle Roddy did the best spicy margarita with ghost pepper he had ever tasted.)
So, you could hardly blame us for moving the boat the mile and a half down the coast to Nobu the following morning to avoid the rocks (even if I would have had a right foot).
But it wasn’t rocks that were the problem. If you look at the chart for Barbuda, you will see the legend: “Uncharted coral heads are liable to exist anywhere within these areas. Mariners are advised to exercise extreme caution.”
We hit one of them at three knots. The reason we were only doing three knots was because I thought we might hit one. It was a bit cloudy, and well before noon, so we could walk to Cocoa Point to work up an appetite. You couldn’t see the colours in the water. Of course, not having any reverse, all we could do was wait for the wind to blow us off.
Then we hit another one. We were only doing two knots this time. Ben didn’t seem nearly so surprised.
If you’re heading that way. I marked them on the Navionics chart – but I have a suspicion they might not be the only ones. We took a detour out to sea after that. Then I dived under the boat, but it was just a couple of scrapes – nothing that a touch-up on the antifouling wouldn’t fix.
Nobu did much more damage.
I suppose I should have done my research. I thought it was just a posh beach bar. In fact, I should have known better because I wrote about Robert de Niro’s Barbudan developments last time. Of course he was going to need a high-end restaurant – and de Niro’s Nobu chain is one of the most exclusive luxury brands in the world. Next year, he’ll have a hotel to go with it.
I couldn’t very well tell Ben he would have to do without his Princess Diana Rum Punch at $28 – and then it would have seemed odd if I baulked at Devil Killer Sake ($32).
After that, there was no holding us – and since Hugo’s inventory of my protein intake and the discovery that my vegetarian diet had left me woefully lacking, Ben recommended the Wagyu beef tacos ($65), and it all rather went downhill from there.
By the time we got to the end, and it was getting on for four o’clock, we finished with a couple of cigars and Hennessy (not the XO – be reasonable.)
Hugo and I had tried cigars in Bequia. I haven’t smoked since my 30s (when my pipe fell out of my mouth into the trough in the gents at the top bar of the Harrow in Fleet Street). It turns out it’s not like riding a bicycle, and Hugo and I just couldn’t keep them alight.
Nobu’s Chateau Fuerte Naturals worked much better. Maybe it helped that they were only half as long (but $50 each, all the same).
The bill, when it came (as they were getting ready to close), was just a smidgeon under $800.
I’ve stopped worrying what it’s going to cost to fix the engine.

Ben contemplates Nobu’s sushi

The bill for lunch for two (no, I can’t believe it either)









