Wild and totally remote from civilisation is how they describe Loch Scavaig and I am still here. I have sampled all three anchorages and am back in the one they call Loch na Cuilce which is sheltered on all sides (although, as we have learned, the wind does come shrieking off the mountains).
I have been thinking about Ben Gunn. Do you suppose that if Ben Gunn were to be rescued today, it wouldn’t be a piece of cheese he would ask for – but a mobile phone?
In Loch na Cuilce not only is there no mobile signal, there isn’t even an FM radio signal. Currently, I am fascinated to discover whether President Trump will indeed succumb to the Coronavirus he dismissed so lightly. I don’t like to think that I wish anyone ill but, you must admit, it is a fascinating scenario.
Consequently, I have been reduced to prowling the cabin, the little transistor an inch from my ear, trying to catch the very rudimentary news from Absolute Radio which is the only station that reaches here – even on Medium Wave.
And that is why you are getting so many posts all at once. I thought I would get a whole lot published from Tobermory but somehow I didn’t feel like re-living the previous couple of weeks – and, now you have read about the embarrassment in the Sound of Islay, you may understand why. It takes a bit of serenity to put these things into proportion – and there is nothing quite as serene as Loch na Cuilce.
You anchor right in the middle of a pool set deep in the cirque of the Black Cuillins of Skye. Then, if you take the dinghy and tie it to the rather wonky steps for the boat that brings the climbers who stay in the squat, windowless bothy on the shore, you can walk up the hill.
I say “walk” but it is a steep hill and you will need your hands to get up as well as your feet.
At the top, there are views that most people only ever see in photographs. Of course, I took more pictures so that you can see them too. But taking photographs is not the same as standing at the top and breathing in and remembering to stand up straight and thinking: This is what you came for. This is something special. This puts life into perspective.
7 Responses to Perspective
Have just read all your recent posts. What an adventure, what an inspirational story. It reminds me of going to Saturday afternoon cinema as a boy and waiting for the next instalment of last week’s action teaser prior to the main event, if you get my DRIFT.
Scenery is more beautiful than in any other part of the world
The ‘williwaws’ there are every bit as violent, when they come, as in the Magellan Strait. I know of a 10m. trimaran, sails down and anchored, that was completely flipped in there. One of the places where having enough rope to run 4 lines to pitons in the rock is very handy.
But at least he hasn’t ruined John’s view with a bloody golf course! Apologies to golfers!
Sounds like the cruise is going very well John. You definitely chose the right direction to go in.
Glad you remembered why you went there!
I recall three attempts to find decent holding there too. All the best places seemed to have been taken but I didn’t care what others thought as we repeatedly dropped and lifted the hook. We knew about the williwaws that come down off the mountains! But in three days we never saw the tops until leaving for Soay. My word they’re big!! On Soay there used to be an old couple who lived there for the summer – mostly alone except for fishermen who visited. Then there was a party but we had to miss it. What an event that must have been. Unlike you John for us time was ever pressing.
Trump is still with us!