My daughter worries that I’m lonely, sailing all by myself with not even a dog or a cat for company.
Not a bit of it. Let me tell you about the last few days.
I came back to Linton Bay to collect the new outboard. It arrived in Colón via a forwarding company in Miami and from there to the Marina. No sooner had I picked a spot in the Eastern anchorage than an email landed from Mike and Nicki of the Australian yacht Zen Again: They had spotted me coming in, identified the Ocean Cruising Club burgee, and would I like to join them for sundowners? In fact, there were seven of us in their cockpit by the time the sun dipped below the horizon in a yet another blaze of gold and purple.
Mike is an electronics engineer cruising the world as he builds IT systems for people in offices from Sydney to San Francisco. Zen Again positively hums with electricity – and he was appalled to discover that I had OpenCPN charts for the whole world but had never looked at them because I didn’t know how.
It’s true. Andy on Cohiba uploaded them for me in St Lucia, but there’s more to it than just having this stuff in your microchips. You have to know how to access it, what to do with it when you’ve found it…
Mike offered a tutorial, and for an hour the following afternoon, I cudgelled my brain with the difference between Raster charts and Vector files and did I need a GPS dongle? I was pathetically grateful even though I don’t think I was any further forward. Anyway, we repaired to the Black Pearl – and there, from the next table, were joined by a tattoo-covered American called John with a Westerly Oceanlord. He had a baseball cap proclaiming “Surf Naked” and the two of us decided we had been living each other’s lives for the past 40 years. He was a professional skier from Aspen. I started sailing when I was five. I was able to assure him that he had indeed done absolutely the right thing in buying a boat first and then working out how to sail her.
Then we added some more chairs and a Turkish family with two little boys joined in. Nibbles appeared and so did another round of Panama’s version of IPA which they call Frog for no particular reason. That turned into dinner and then Roxana turned up in her red dress.
Roxana is a Hungarian violinist who gave up playing with major orchestras to sail her 30footer where the wind takes her. She pays her way by busking absolutely world-class music in any bar that will have her. The Black Pearl will have her any time she feels like turning up.
And I’m wrapping up this post sitting in Julie’s Juice Bar waiting for my “vegetarian bowl” before leaving for Portobello because they have an ATM machine and there isn’t one in the San Blas. After that, if I can get to Banedup by Sunday afternoon, there’s usually an impromptu party on the beach. If not, the beach bar does absolutely the best piña colada and I shall be quite happy sit with it on my own, at a table knee-deep in the water under a palm-frond roof with solar-powered fairy lights as the sun goes down on another day in paradise.
And here’s a video of Roxana at the Black Pearl: IMG_4677
Hi John, reading your book for the second time and enjoying that your still out there. Hey, was that challenge ever achieved, single handed none stop around the U.K ?
Yes, a couple of weeks after my capsize, an old friend from the 1988 OSTAR, Peter Keig of Carrickfergus called to ask if I was planning to have another go, and if not, would I mind if he had a stab at it.
Peter had a lovely 38ft steel boat called Zeal, and of course I was delighted.
However, as he was getting ready, we discovered that Robin Knox-Johnston was borrowing a production boat to try and claim the record.
The two of them set off at about the same time, Robin going clockwise, and Peter going anti-clockwise, as I remember it.
Peter returned to Carrickfergus before Robin got back to Dover (despite the greater mileage). I think the difference was a day or two.
Nobody paid much attention, though.
Hi John,
I’m so sorry to read your report, it’s no wonder your family are worried sick about the miserable conditions of your sailing life. Most likely…nauseous of sunny life in UK winter…the impending coup by Trump et al, Stormer tax hikes & of course new go it alone stance forced upon Europe vis a vie Ukraine.
So, our commiserations on the terrible conditions etc., chin up & more sundowners.
Adios amigo
Wish I was doing that – Blighty has gone to the dogs
Nice read. Very uplifting.
Excellent – say I hi to Mike and Nikki John. I first met them in Nova Scotia last summer and then again in London in November!
Oh what a boring life!!
John……you are living the dream….a life lived to the max. I really appreciate your writing, sense of humor and positivity !
Write more ….!! Phil A
Thank you. Did you know I now have nine books (there’s a “books” tab on the blog?) I am most proud of Faster, Louder, Riskier, Sexier – which one kind reader said was the best thing I had ever done.